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Last night we moored in the Grand Union Canal close to the Hatton top lock. As usual, I got up early to walk around and look at the birds, sheep, and cattle. I was particularly hesitant to wake Jeff up as I knew that our day would begin with a flight of 21 locks.

We had a lovely breakfast at the Hatton Café – there is a picture of my veggie breakfast below for Beth. Jeff had hoped to see volunteers when we started through the first lock, but no luck. Fortunately near the fourth lock, I met a volunteer when I was returning to the boat. I took the opportunity to tell them that I wasn’t helping Jeff at all. I wondered what they would make of that comment. It turns out that the other volunteer asked Jeff whether I just didn’t like working the locks. Jeff explained that I have Parkinson’s and am not particularly comfortable driving (yet, says Jeff to me). The two volunteers gave up assisting a boat going up the locks so that they could help us go down the locks. It is incredibly efficient and fast because they leapfrog between managing the current lock and preparing the next lock (and means Jeff is not doing hard physical labour for hours!). They operated about 15 or so locks before they had to leave to deal with a flooded lock above us.

I may not have been physically helpful today, but I did manage to score us freshly made scones with clotted cream and jam at the cafe. They were a delicious treat when Jeff was done. 

It was another unbelievably gorgeous sunny day. Definitely the warmest day we’ve had. We are now moored in Warwick near a pub called the Cape of Good Hope. We continue to make our way to the Oxford Canal to meet Mallory Wednesday next week.

Some of my photos from today. Please note that the last 3 photos are in the Saltisford Canal Centre, a permanent narrow boat community.

That was a stark contrast.  Two days ago we were in probably the roughest area of our trip.  Since then we’ve left the gritty cityscape behind and entered the countryside.  The weather continues to be brilliant, sunny and comfortable.  I wore shorts today.

The canal has gotten straighter and wider as well.  The controlling width is now 14 ft.  Easy peasy, but a little dull.  Fortunately there’s always something of interest while burbling along.  Lots of birds, and a few more boats and people along the canal.

We’re now here at the top of a flight of 21 locks going down into Warwick.  If we’re lucky there will be volunteers to help tomorrow.  We had a team take us down a short flight of 5 locks earlier today.

Photos from yesterday coming out of Birmingham

And today

We’ve done the BCN loop.  From Gas St to the Dudley Canal No.2,  then around the Wyrley and Essington Canal to the Rushall Canal, then the Tame Valley down to where we entered Birmingham.  We’re now on the Grand Union heading back towards the Oxford Canal.

These are not heavily traveled waterways.  We haven’t seen another boat underway in 4 days.  And some of them aren’t in the best shape, with lots of shallow areas, debris and leaky locks.  We ran out of water in the canal yesterday coming down the Rushall Canal, but two Canal and River Trust (CRT) staff came by this morning and filled it up for us.

Today was another long day, with 23 locks.  I’m tired. 

The weather has been relentlessly pleasant.  The forecast is for sun and mid-teens through the week. 

Some pictures from Monday

Our favourite pictures from Tuesday

We left Wolverhampton around 0930. The departure from our mooring required skilled maneuvers from Jeff, including steering the boat in reverse. We enjoyed yet another sunny day on the canals, albeit with a chilly wind. I was a bit cold, so was reminded of a comment made by a canal man met earlier in the trip, “there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing”. Too true.

We passed a busy canal-side pub around lunchtime but decided to press on to the town of Walsall. I wanted to visit a pub near town reputed to be the second oldest in the country, the Manor Arms built ca 1104.

The boating was moderately slow going, as we were on less-travelled canals that are not particularly well maintained. In some areas, Jeff had to be careful not to run aground or uselessly churn up the mud beneath us; in spots, there was some significant challenges within the canal itself (such as when we hit what seems to have been a submerged shopping cart ) but we escaped unscathed.

Because of a mixture of anticipation and concern that the kitchen might close early on a Sunday night, i convinced Jeff to go straight to the Arms on arrival. We were very disappointed when we were told that the only food being served was a cob (corned. beef or turkey We left, ended up docking at a local boat club and ate supper on the boat.

There are over 100 miles of canals that were built around Birmingham to carry coal, ores and manufactured goods.  We’re exploring some of them.

Yesterday I was keen to visit the Black Country Museum, and also to go through a proper tunnel,  but got a little confused in my directions.  We went through the 2.9 km long Netherton Tunnel, but missed the museum.  No matter.  We spent the night at a nice park on the return trip, and went through the tunnel again, stopped at the museum for a bit, and continued on to Wolverhampton today.  We’re tied up here and just back from a great meal in a local Indian restaurant.

Yesterday’s photos

Today’s pictures

Guest post by Susan

Despite the long day yesterday and the active social scene last night in Gas St. basin where we were moored, we were up early for a walk around the neighborhood. We went out later again by foot and also by boat. We’re in a new spot for the night – still downtown, about two blocks from last night’s spot.

Here are today’s pictures, and a short video.

Today was a locking day.  We did 23 locks to climb up into the heart of Birmingham.  Very interesting, but I’m tired.  It’s a lot of work opening and closing the lock gates, which weigh 2-2.5 tonnes, and walking between locks to prep and close each one.

We made it to Gas St Basin and snagged a good spot.  Not sure I’m going to want to move much tomorrow.  Think we’ll explore the local area on foot. 

Birmingham has a sprawling network of canals.  It’s very cool to be coming into the heart of the city by boat. 

We’re tied up at Cuckoo Wharf.  I guess you can call it the city proper.  We passed through a junction of 3 canals with a major highway overhead and then passed over a river on an aquaduct.  All very industrial and urban. 

Today was another short travel day.  Yesterday we discovered a leaking fresh water system was slowly filling the boat with water, and after a consult with the rental base their problem solver Kevin met us this morning and sorted the problem and pumped us dry.

Tomorrow we head for the Gas St Basin.  It’s not far, but there are 23 locks to climb. 

The weather continues to be entirely acceptable. Sunny and 15C forecast highs for the next couple of days. 

Guest post by Susan

First of all, don’t worry, Jeff is still with me, and no, we are not lost. However we’re not in a particularly notable spot. We are on a journey to the centre of Birmingham, the second largest city in England. There’s lots to see and do there, so look for later posts about this part of our adventure.

One funny story – we stopped for lunch in Curdworth but decided the first restaurant, the White Lion, looked too fancy and expensive. However after the next two choices were closed, we decided to give it a go. It turned out to be our best and cheapest meal yet. For the foodies, Jeff had beef bourgignon and I had a grilled halloumi skewer with feta salad. Delish!

Photos of our day will follow, but I want to note how everyone we talk to, from other boaters, volunteers at the locks, and restaurant staff to chatty locals, have expressed their concern and support for Canada in these uncertain and difficult times. It has been heartwarming and made me realize (again) that kindness to strangers reinforces our social fabric and reminds us that we are not alone.

Lazy day today.  We made a couple of stops, and fetched up here next to a lovely pub where we had dinner.  Met a few colourful locals on the canal and in the pub.

This canal leads into the center of Birmingham.  I’m looking forward to a bit more urban landscape, and Susan and I agree that we’ll try to spend a bit more time ashore walking and seeing the sights.