Ecum Secum

I’m anchored here.  Today I came down the river after lunch ashore, and followed the mainland as closely as possible.  Light winds and mostly sunny, but not warm.  I started up the heater for the first time this evening.  Tomorrow I’ll do much the same to get to Sheet Harbour, threading through the islands.   I’ll dash down the coast to Halifax Friday, with NE winds forecast.

It’s very empty.  The only boats I’ve seen underway recently were a couple of guys harvesting seaweed from small boats along the shore. 

Sailing

Beautiful day, with an offshore breeze of about 15 knots on the beam as I sailed down the coast.  This is the first time I’ve turned the motor off for any length of time.   The picture above was taken standing on the stern, the one time I ventured out of the cockpit. 

As planned, I came up the Saint Mary’s River to Sherbrooke, and anchored here about 6:00.  I’ll go ashore tomorrow and have a meal out and a walk around.  Sunny and light winds for the next two days, then strong easterlies Friday. 

Dover

Today was overcast with SE wind about 10 knots.  As planned I was through the St Peter’s lock mid morning, and went around the west side of Isle Madame.  I toured the harbour in Petit de Gras, then went over to Canso.  From there it was a nice trip through Andrew Passage and then through Little Dover Run into Dover. 

I’m now anchored here, not far from where we stopped last year in Escapade.  Tomorrow’s destination is Sherbrooke Village, about 40 miles straight down the coast and 8 miles up a river.  Skies have cleared and it looks like it might be a decent sailing day.

St Peter’s

I’ve been hanging out near St Peter’s Marina the last few days, with a couple of side trips.  Nice spot, with cruisers coming and going.  Lots of foreign boats as well as some from Ontario and Quebec.

My plan is to go through the locks tomorrow, and start heading down the mainland coast.  Weather looks cooperative for the next few days, with light north winds.

Bras D’Or Lakes

Sunset in Wycocomagh

I’m back in Baddeck.  As planned I fueled up and got underway Friday, and went up to Wycocomagh where I spent the night.  There is a nice French bakery/cafe right next to the welcome center where I had breakfast yesterday, then I cruised back and up Baddeck Bay then back here yesterday.

Fuel stats: 800 NM motorsailing, 132 hours, 303 litres/80 gal. 

Fuel price is shocking, at $3.20/l.  I guess I can take comfort in knowing that I used less than half what I would have in Escapade.  

I’m going to noodle around the Lakes for the next few days, then through the St Peter’s Canal.  I’d like to make stops on Isle Madame and Canso.  Rain tonight then another few days of settled weather.

I like this area.  It’s quiet this time of year.  A couple of US cruisers were here earlier, but left yesterday.  I’m now sharing the anchorage with a Dutch cruiser.  I raced in Baddeck a few times, and came through here in Escapade in ’21.  It’s great to get to explore it a bit more completely.

Baddeck

I had a lovely downwind sail here yesterday.  It’s the first time I’ve had the motor off for any length of time.  I anchored in front of the yacht club.  Sailed by the Bird Islands but didn’t see the activity from last time through 5 years ago.  Late in the season I guess.  I did see quite a few Puffins in NL, as well as a leatherback turtle.

Today was windy and rainy, so I’ve stayed put.  The next couple of days look lovely.  Tomorrow I’ll fuel up and do a grocery run and move along.

The delivery part of the trip is over.  I’m going to noodle more between here and Halifax.

Hello Nova Scotia

I’m anchored here in Ingonish.  Today I sailed across the Cabot Strait from Isle aux-Morts where I stayed last night.

It was a lovely trip across.  NW winds built to about 20 knots and we had nice sailing most of the way.

Tomorrow looks nice for the run down to Baddeck.  I had thought about sailing around the Atlantic side of Cape Breton, but I need to top up on fuel and food.

Pics from Burgeo and yesterday

And today

South Coast

Sitting out the storm

I’m tied up in Burgeo Saturday sitting out some bad weather.  Heavy rain arrived this morning and NE 30-40 knot winds are forecast through the next 24 hours or so.  I’m safe and secure here, though not venturing out into the driving rain.

Yesterday I had a lovely trip straight across from Fortune, passing within a few miles of Miquelon.  Left at 0630 and got in here at 1900.

My plan is to stay here until Monday morning, then follow the coast to Port aux Basques.  From there it’s about 80 miles across to Ingonish.  The weather looks cooperative for crossing Tuesday or Wednesday.

Looking at the log, I’ve traveled 630 NM and added 106 engine hours over 7.5 travel days.  It’s been quite remarkable in what I haven’t encountered:

  • Fog
  • Wind more than 15 knots
  • Seas greater than 1m

Also remarkable is the absence of other pleasure boats, or any boats for that matter.  There are some small boats out fishing, but the only active cruisers I’ve come across are a Nordhavn 63 tied up next to me here and three French sailboats that traveled south with me from St John’s.  At first I assumed they’d sailed over from Europe, but later I realized that they were returning home to St Pierre and Miquelon.

I’ve had the motor running the entire time, apart from about 1/2 hour of sailing on the first day.  But I’ve had some decent motorsailing, like yesterday.  Target speed was 6 knots, except for yesterday when I bumped it up to 7.  I’ve used about 270l of fuel.

The boat is great.  I’m not suffering trawler withdrawal, despite it having been perfect trawler weather.  The cockpit and interior is very comfortable.  All systems are working well with a couple of very minor exceptions and I’m impressed with the care and attention that shows everywhere. 

The area I passed by over the last couple of days is renowned for remote natural beauty, with long fjords and small outport communities, many abandoned.  I gave some thought to spending a bit of time poking around, but will save that for another pass. 

Fortune

I’m tied up in Fortune for the night.  All good aboard.

Tuesday was a long day.  I came around Cape Race in flat conditions, and kept going across to the Burin Peninsula.  I anchored in Màrystown at dawn Wednesday.

After getting a few hours sleep I cruised up through the islands with a stop in Burin, then on to St Lawrence where I stayed the night. 

Today I came around the peninsula, past St Pierre and Miquelon.