Dingwall

I’m anchored here in Dingwall.  Left Mabou at 0630 and got in here at 2100.  It’s a delightful little harbour, very quiet right now.

I have 132 (!) pictures from today.  Rather than pick highlights I’ll get them all here once I’m in more solid internet land.

Wow. The coast is more dramatic and varied than I was expecting. Well worth the trip. I stopped in Chedicamp for lunch, and from there north every little cape brought another delight.

I’m not going to Newfoundland. Lots to see and do in NS for the next couple of months. Tomorrow I’ll head 45 miles down the eastern side of the cape to the northern entrance to the Bras D’Or Lakes. Maybe Baddeck tomorrow night.

Today was a perfect day for traveling the coast. Warm for this area – I’ve been in shorts and a tee shirt for the last 48 hours – and calm. More of the same for the next day or two, though fog seems likely tonight.

I saw a couple of pilot whales near Cape St Lawrence, and lots of birds. Mostly though I was looking at the shore. There is such a sense of permanence here, just eons of sea and rock.

Mabou

At anchor

I’m anchored here in a lovely cove in Mabou. Wow. I could happily be storm stayed here. One house on the point and a small boating club, otherwise empty. There is an excellent pub and bakery 2 km away by road or dinghy.

The geography is quite striking. I didn’t get the full treatment coming in as a couple of heavy showers were hanging around. Hope it’s clear in the morning.

When I came in I tried to get closer to the pub, and almost anchored close to route 9, but then bumped bottom a couple of times and thought better of that. It’s mid tide rising, but a pretty small range here.

I straight lined it leaving Pictou, so was a few miles off the north shore coming out. Met land again at Henry Island and followed the shore in to Mabou.

There is no significant wind forecast between now and Thursday anywhere in the area. Probably some thunderstorms, but the ones I encountered today were non threatening. So I’m feeling good about traveling around the top of Cape Breton. I guess I’ll be following the Cabot Trail. Cool.

I’ve also been realizing that Newfoundland is really close. I could be in Port aux Basques easily in two days. Noodling on that.

I could also use some company. Looks like some really spectacular country, and it seems a shame to do it alone.

I’ve got plenty of room for guests and will always trade good food or good music for passage. If you’re reading this and want to come on a boating adventure on short notice reach out.

Pics from today in order. You may notice more lighthouse shots in the future. They’re for philosophy aunt Anita.

Visitors!

Today I had a delightful visit with my aunt Diane, her son Troy, and his wife Jeanette. Diane and her husband Don live a few hundred meters from where I anchored, and Troy and Jeanette drove up to meet us from their home in Middle Stewiacke.

We went for a little cruise down to the mouth of the river. Decent day for sitting up top.

Pics and videos from the guests.

New Glasgow

I like this place already.  I’m anchored here essentially in the middle of town. 

Today was flat calm.  I traveled about 1/2 – 1 mile offshore in about 30 feet of water.  It’s all mud here.  Around Caribou and in to Pictou for supper ashore, then in to here at dusk. 

I dinghied ashore here and had a drink, then brought a donair back to the boat for a second supper.

I’m taking a break.  It’s hard to stop, but I’ve been underway for three weeks straight.  I’m not moving tomorrow.

Interesting fact – New Glasgow is one of the three biggest towns in Nova Scotia outside of Halifax. 

When I leave here I have a choice of routes:

1) east through the Straits of Canso  then (most likely) turn right to head towards Halifax.

2) north to follow the coast of Cape Breton to enter the Bras D’Or Lakes from the north. Then south to the St Peter’s Canal.

A couple of days ago I was thinking of beelining for the eastern shore. But now I’m leaning towards heading north. Part of this is weather related of course. I haven’t looked carefully, but the next few days look very good for the run north, which is a bit more exposed and treacherous.

Hello Nova Scotia!

I went under the Confederation Bridge yesterday, and switched from travel mode to exploration mode. The yellow line at the right is my path since anchoring last night. I’m underway now heading for Pictou, following the shoreline.

The trip east along the south shore of the Northumberland Strait was uneventful and uninteresting. I stopped in Shediac for dinner, then anchored for the night here.

Yesterday I went into Pugwash without stopping, then tied up at Wallace Harbour, but the restaurant there was closed for the day. Continued on to anchor near Tatmagouche near dark.

Today I went up the Waughs River and got as close as I could to Tatmagouche, but didn’t go ashore.

Next stop is Pictou/New Glasgow later today. I’m running low on food and drink and need to stock up.

Around the Gaspe

I’m anchored here for the night in light south winds.  There is a fishing port very close by where I’ll get fuel in the morning.

So, quick version:  I left Rimouski, drove 257 NM in 28 hours, stopped here at Miscou Island for a long snooze, then traveled 65 miles to here today. Clear and calm for the first segment, overcast and a moderate headwind today. Smooth sailing.

Pics, in chronological order.

Chasing the High

Things are unfolding according to the plan I made going to sleep last night.

I woke about 1100 to a thick fog, headed in to the marina, and filled up with fuel and water and pumped out. My first pit stop since the Rideau Canal. As I was there the fog lifted. I’ve been plodding down the coast since. It’s flat calm, sunny and clear. The forecast is for more of this for the next 36 hours around the Gaspe Penninsula. So I’m settled in for a long run. Will stop Tuesday evening or when the weather turns.

So far I’ve been a mile or two from shore in 30-50 feet of water. But just ahead I’ll be hitting the canyon where it goes from 100 – 1000 ft deep very quickly. Will be watching for critters as I follow the wall.

Rimouski

I’ve had a couple of good travel days. Last night I stopped in Tadoussac at the mouth of the Saguenay River. Anchored in the harbour and dinghied in to the marina, walked up the hill to get a few groceries, and had a meal ashore.

Tonight I’m anchored here in calm conditions. Nice evening.

I saw a few whales today, several groups of beluga and a couple of humpback. Hard to get pictures.

I thought I might stay around the Saguenay for a couple of days, but the weather has been good and it looks like I’ve got a couple of days of calm settled weather ahead of me, so am trying to make miles while the going is good.

I need fuel and a pump out so will visit the marina here early tomorrow then head east.

Lots of pictures. Here’s yesterday’s

And today’s