Boating Adventures

Just tied up at another free visitor’s dock with power. The last 45 minutes were traveled in the dark as I waited about 90 minutes for the Marseilles lock. That seems to be typical – the tows take a long time to lock through, and have priority over us PCs.

So after 2 full days I’ve come 90 miles. 240 to go on the Illinois Waterway. I’ve been getting underway at 0700 but will try to start earlier tomorrow.

No real drama today. It’s chilly outside, around 5c today, but I keep the heat on inside and spend most of my time there. I took advantage of the delays at locks to tidy up and fine tune my new electronics. The radar is great. I didn’t have any problems coming in here after dark and felt comfortable operating from inside.

I’m going to walk downtown for some dinner then get to bed early. Think I was asleep before ten last night.

The obligatory selfie. Glad Sarah left her hat aboard!

I passed what appeared to be a houseboat community kind of in the middle of nowhere

Lots of tows

For one of them I had to tuck in between the big bollards to let the tow go by.

Lots of fun!

I’m tied to the wall in Joliet, where the community has made an effort to accommodate transient boaters. It’s free and has power, which is almost essential given the temperature. If I wasn’t plugged in I’d be running the generator to keep the heat on. I’m planning to venture out soon to walk around town and eat out as long as it’s not raining.

Weather today was at times quite windy, 20 – 30 knots, light rain at times, and high 40s (f). Pretty raw outside. I mostly stayed inside and had the heat on for much of the day.

Good news: I tried a docking technique that I was sort of mentally rehearsing, and it went amazingly well. There was a 90 minute wait at the top of the Lockport Lock, and a strong wind blowing perpendicular to the channel. The dock master suggested I secure on the windward wall. That’s a tricky maneuver because the bow gets easily blown off. Today I used a 40 foot dockline as a bow spring, swung the stern in and dropped it on a bollard then powered up to it. Slick. First time I’ve actually done that.

Bad news: I collided violently with a barge. Obviously I’m alive to tell the story, and the boat came through it surprisingly well.

Some background. I’ve noticed that my autopilot behaves strangely around large steel structures like bridges. It’s been particularly noticable around Chicago. Lotta steel here.

There is a particularly congested and busy section of the Waterway at the bottom end of the Sanitary Canal. One section has barges rafted three deep on the shore and there’s not a lot of width left. I was meeting an oncoming tow with parked barges on my right, talking with him on the radio. He was directing me to a gap ahead that I could pull into. I was maybe 10-15 feet from a parked barge traveling parallel to it, and suddenly the boat turned towards the barge and we hit it hard with the starboard bow, bounced, then hit again before I disengaged the autopilot and throttled back. We were going about 6 knots.

Lesson learned. Don’t use the autopilot in very close proximity to large steel barges. The boat has a robust aluminum rub rail that fortunately took the hit, but there is a bit of gelcoat damage on deck too. Nothing major.

Oh, I went through the famous electric fish barrier. No drama.

And went through the Lockport Lock with one other PC (that’s what we’re called in these parts) after waiting more than an hour for an upbound tow.

My plan is to get underway at about 0700 tomorrow. Timing seem right as there is freezing temps and snow in the forecast a few days out.

Not unexpectedly I’ve been pretty busy the last couple of days. I’ve been making lists and chipping away at things but I generally don’t get going until the last minute. I just finished the last item an hour ago, repositioning the lower helm chair.

Anyway, I feel ready.

This segment takes me from the Calumet River to the Illinois Waterway, which runs about 325 miles to flow into the Mississippi at Grafton IL. There are a few small towns and marinas along the way. I did this trip in 1991 in a sailboat, so I have some idea of what to expect. It’s also a required passage for Loopers.

My plan is to stay on the Mississippi to Louisiana. The alternative (generally preferred) route calls for leaving the Mississippi at Cairo IL, about 200 miles downstream of Grafton, so that’s my go/no go point. Assuming I stay on the Ms it’s then another 650 miles with only two stops for yachts.

I’m looking forward to getting comfortable with the new electronics during the trip to Grafton. I don’t expect any major drama on that segment. Famous last words…

As part of my fall repairs/refit I installed a bunch of new electronics:

VHF: new Standard Horizon GX2200. I replaced the old VHF at the lower station and installed a RAM mike on the flybridge. I have a handheld that I had been using up top.

My main motivation was to have AIS reception and DSC capabilities. The RAM is a full function remote with a good speaker. Very pleased with having a good radio on the FB.

RADAR: Garmin Fantom 18. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/555656#overview

I hadn’t really considered radar earlier. I’m pretty old school in many ways. But I really like traveling at night, and want to get really comfortable operating from the inside helm. It was a spirited discussion on the AGLA forum that got me to the decision.

I should say that I’ve been on a few boats with radar over the years but haven’t actually seen one used effectively. But they’ve come a long way. The technology is quite remarkable, and power consumption is very low. I’m looking forward to making good use of it.

I spent a lot of time on finding a solution for mounting the radar unit. I seriously considered mounting it on the brow over the windshield. RF radiation is far less on the new digital radars, so it might have been safe, but I wasn’t confident that I would get a good view aft. A radar arch is a good solution, but I didn’t want to increase my fixed height. If I had an open chequebook I could have had a folding arch fabricated. That would be the best solution. But I chose instead to do something with scrounged materials from the boatyard. Here’s what I ended up with. The pole is easily dropped to the deck for bridge clearance.

MFD: this is the new term for plotter. I got a Garmin 942sx. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/575476#overview

I mounted this on the FB and moved my 540 plotter to the lower helm. One nice feature on the new unit is a that it connects via WiFi to my tablet and is mirrored there so I can use it from the lower helm.

I also added a new depth transducer and heading sensor.

A newer MFD was needed to get all the features of the radar. I was also interested in the integrated Active Captain community information.

I finished the install today and went for a brief cruise, then played with the radar from the dock for a while. Very pleased and excited with the new capabilities.

My plan is to get underway again in a week. I’ve been reading all the warnings against taking the lower Mississippi but my plan is to go that route. So no change to the plans I outlined in my earlier post ‘Winter Plans.’

I need to be fully prepared. There are only a couple of places to stop south of St Louis. Basically I’m on my own for 600+ miles on the Mississippi. It’s kind of like getting on an expressway with no exit ramps. Or at least that’s how I’ve come to think about it. I think I’m going to like it.

Boat is in good order. I have a new radar, VHF with AIS, plotter, and depth finder. Mechanical is good. Have a comfortable inside steering station set up for bad weather.

I’ve been learning a bit more about the early canal building here. The Illinois and Michigan Canal had a big role in Chicago’s early history. I hope to stop and explore a couple of the river towns on the Illinois Waterway on the way. Lots of interesting history.

Samantha and Sarah jetted in this weekend for a quick visit. Lovely. And they indulged me in a long, mostly boring, occasionally rough, and relentlessly dark and cold boat trip.

My boat went in the water a couple of weeks ago and I’ve been staying on the north dock at Crowley’s. Good power and out of the hustle and bustle. I’m very pleased with the heating capabilities of the reverse cycle a/c.

I really wanted to do a shakedown cruise before setting off. I fixed a couple of nagging issues with the motor and wanted to make sure all was in order. It is. I also had the prop rebuilt and it’s definitely smoother.

In any case, we went up the Calumet to the Sanitary Canal, then up to Chicago. Spent the night in DuSable Harbor, had a great dinner out, and zoomed down the lake this morning to get back to the yard.

Planning on leaving in about a week so will try to blog about the preparations.

This is the O’Brien lock, taking us down from the Calumet port area to the level of the Illinois Waterway. Just a small drop of a couple of feet, we just idled in the middle of the lock. There was a corresponding lock up at the lake in Chicago downtown.

Past a steel mill

Coming into the Loop

DuSable Harbor

Heading south on the lake

Thanks Samantha and Sarah for the pictures, and for joining me!

I wrote this on Sept 23 under the title Winter Plans

I’ve been making a bit of a study of looping and Loopers. I’m not quite ready to join that club. If I complete the Great Loop I suppose I’ll recognize the occasion, but it is not really a goal, and not really the right identity for me. I do want to recognize the strong community and identity that Loopers have. I’m a member of the AGLA and I think they’ve done a lot to create that identity. From the Trent Severn to Chicago everyone along the way knew about Loopers, and at times it was convenient and helpful to self-identity as a Looper. I was chatting with my old boss and friend Bruce about this and he whipped out the Groucho Marx classic about not wanting to be a member of a club that would have me. That sort of sums it up nicely.

When I got underway I thought about getting an AGLA burgee. I didn’t, because I was in home waters and didn’t want to display that label until I got into the US. Plus I hate cross border shopping. The plan was to revisit when I got here.

I ordered my burgee today and will fly it proudly. I want to identify as a member of this group. I’m also getting a burgee from Guelph Community Boating Club. And I’ll get a Canadian flag and a US courtesy flag.

My newfound enthusiasm is in part driven by seeing all the recreational power boats cruising by here on the Calumet River. Many don’t have the first clue about courteous operation. But Loopers are recognized and generally respected by the yard crew. And although I’m trying to stay off Facebook there is a AGLA group there and it’s really cool to see the community of Looper watchers – people on towboats or views of the rivers spotting Loopers. I think that’s cool.

So even though I may not loop I’m ready to fly the flag.

I was looking for a picture. The only one I have of Mazurka is this one. Look hard!

I’ve been on the hard for about ten days, in the middle of a busy boatyard. This pic was of a measurer checking a Farr 40 for the upcoming worlds.

At night it’s just me, the security guard, and the odd looper here in this huge facility at the mouth of the Calumet River. This used to be a big port. The yard is bounded by an industrial canal, a huge lifting railroad bridge, and a rail switching yard. I was sitting out in the cockpit enjoying the sights and sounds earlier. They never end.

I was woken the other night about 0230 by a loud blast from a ships horn. I was curious and got up to see a cement ship go through the bridge. I dunno how big Lakers get, but this guy wasn’t small.

I was anxious to get back in the water after the bottom repair but the prop shop still has my propeller so I’m waiting for that. But I’m actually quite comfortable out of the water, and the docks are busy. I may stay out for a while.

I have my car here, as I drove back from a visit home last weekend. One of these days I’ll go sightseeing. I haven’t really been too motivated to do that but have scoped out local grocery shops and Mexican takeout.

If I sound neutral about this don’t assume I’m not enjoying this. I am. Immensely.

I’ve got a good handle on the necessary repairs now. Bottom is fully repaired, prop is out for repair – I found some minor dings in the tips – turbocharger is being serviced.

I had a wish list when I arrived:

1. AIS. I don’t care about transmitting – which allows others to see me – but a receiver is essential. So my plan is to replace my VHF with a new one that has AIS. I’ll also install a satellite mike on the flybridge and a speaker as well.
2. A windlass.
3. A new dinghy. Similar to the one I have but lighter. Mine is on its last legs

I got thinking of the windlass because a) everyone has one, b) I like the idea of having a winch of some sort to pull myself off if I go seriously aground, c) Crowley’s is a Lewmar repair center, and they have some deals on refurbished/surplus gear, and d) I could use a chain or partial chain anchor rode. I have a chain-rope rode now that has 30 feet of chain, and it’s really hard to handle without a windlass.

My current arrangement is using an all rope rode and either a 40 lb hook anchor or a Fortress fx23. I also carry a 45 lb plow anchor but have never used it. To be honest for pretty much all I’ve done so far it works for me. I get good exercise raising anchor. I haven’t been in areas where chafe was a concern. I typically lay out the rode neatly on the foredeck and let it dry out. Wander up and turn it over in the sun.

When I started thinking of the practical concerns about the installation. Of course a windlass is just part of a complete anchoring system. You need robust wiring, a dedicated battery, waterproof switches. And a good anchor locker, which I really don’t got. So I’m leaning towards not getting a windlass, at least a modern one. I’m now thinking that I’ll add a short chain leader to my rope rode for everyday use.

A new candidate has emerged though. Radar. I’ve been thinking lots about piloting and navigation since running up on the rock in Georgian Bay. There were lots of contributing factors, and I’m certainly not going to blame my tools. But a recent discussion on the AGLA forum was pretty persuasive. And a new radar is probably less $ than a windlass, looking at installed cost, although as always it’s easy to spend big bucks. The new digital units look super cool, but would require a new plotter. Maybe I don’t need a new dinghy right away…

I was just rereading my earlier post outlining my plan for the summer. Things went more or less according to plan.

https://boatingadventuresblog.wordpress.com/2018/08/03/the-plan/

So. What’s next? Into the rivers and south.

I’m super pleased to have been welcomed back at Crowley’s. I worked out of the old yard from 1989 – 93 and they were a class act then. They still are. Same active owner management and a team that includes many from my tenure. So I’m hanging there until Nov 2. I have a list of maintenance and improvements that they’re helping me with.

That puts me at the tail end of the fall migration. I’m ok with that. I generally avoid marinas, am self sufficient in terms of fuel and water, and have enclosed steering and heat. I’m not really afraid of the weather. But it does to an extent impose constraints. I’ve got to get below the snowbelt pretty quick, and everything is more enjoyable in fair weather.

Where do I want to end up? That’s the thing. I don’t really have a destination. But I do want to keep moving.

Before I forget – I’m docked basically at the Illinois – Indiana border at the mouth of the Calumet River. If I had visitors (hint hint) I would love to do a boat tour on Mazurka going up the lake to downtown Chicago, into the river, through downtown then into the industrial section and down the Calumet to get back. Any readers of this are encouraged to book now. Just bring a picnic lunch and promise to feign interest :-). I’d promise fall colours but we may not see a lot of trees.

Back to the itinerary. I’ve been making a bit of a study of looping and Loopers. I’m not quite ready to join that club. If I complete the Great Loop I suppose I’ll recognize the occasion, but it is not really a goal, and not really the right identity for me. I do want to recognize the strong community and identity that Loopers have. I’m a member of the AGLA and I think they’ve done a lot to create that identity. From the Trent Severn to Chicago everyone along the way knew about Loopers, and at times it was convenient and helpful to self-identity as a Looper. I was chatting with my old boss and friend Bruce about this and he whipped out the Groucho Marx classic about not wanting to be a member of a club that would have me. That sort of sums it up nicely.

So I need a mission statement. Here goes. And I can’t get the Star Trek intro out of my head.

‘To travel and explore all the inland navigable waters of eastern Canada and the US.”

I don’t think I need to say anything more than that. I don’t really have an end date in mind. I currently have the majority of my time available to dedicate to the mission, but that may change. I have what I think is a reasonable boat to achieve this broad mission. Not perfect, but in general a boat that meets my needs pretty well and that I like a lot.

When I think about what comes next and what I look forward to, the great rivers of the Mississippi basin come to mind immediately. I’ve spent lots of time in SE Florida and the northern Bahamas, and there is some appeal, but I’m also happy avoiding or limiting the whole Florida scene, at least the east coast. And while I haven’t done the entire Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AICW) I’ve done enough of it to know what to expect. Concerns there too with the northbound hordes in the spring. I’d rather avoid the crowds. The more I think about it the more I think I should avoid the traditional Looper path.

So for sure I’m leaving Chicago in early November, and my boat will be ready. I’ll travel down the Illinois River to Grafton IL where it flows into the Mississippi. Then down the Mississippi to Cairo IL where the Ohio River enters the Mississippi.

I did the first part of that trip in November 1992 with Samantha on a sailboat with the mast down. We went from Chicago to West Alton. She didn’t much like it, and the Loopers don’t much like this segment either. But I remember it with fondness. The Mississippi segment will be a new adventure, one that I’ve long looked forward to.

What happens at Cairo? That’s the question. The standard Looper route is to leave the Mississippi there, and go briefly up the Ohio, then south to the Kentucky Lakes then down to Mobile AL via the Tennesee-Tombigby waterway. It’s a well traveled path for yachts heading south.

One of the questions is how much time I have to linger and explore. This area is rich with opportunities. I want to do the Ohio and Tennessee rivers end to end. But given seasonal constraints I think I don’t have time before winter. I think I need to be at or near the Gulf coast by late November.

I’m also thinking of my 2019 goals and constraints. I really want to be back in Georgian Bay next summer. It’s beautiful, close to home, and back in Canada.

So here’s my tentative plan. Instead of getting off the Mississippi at Cairo, I will continue on for another 640 miles to the entrance to the Atchfalaya River. From there I do some local exploration and end up going through Morgan City to the gulf. Then I can either turn right towards Texas and Mexico or left towards Alabama and Florida. Or just hang out in the Bayou.

In any case, this plan calls for an early spring trip north through the Tennesee-Tombigbee, hopefully time to explore the Tennessee and/or Ohio rivers, then from Cairo back up to Chicago and from there to Georgian Bay. I have to check weather stats, but winter is pretty brief in the mid south. I have to think I could start north in early March.

I have about six weeks to finalize this plan, and to be honest may not decide which way to go until I’m close to Cairo. Much too depends on water levels and flows. Some angry/dangerous water is inevitable, but caution, diligence and good judgement is called for. But I’m also happy to hunker down when it’s appropriate. Have lots of flexibility and no fixed deadlines.

Probably the biggest argument against this route is that parts of it involve fighting the current. I’m not wild about the idea, but my boat is fast enough to do it, and I can try to pick windows of travel on these segments. In general spring isn’t great because of winter runoff, but with climate change upon us the old generalizations aren’t as useful as they used to be. I’m willing to face those challenges and risks.